Hot Water Beach

Tuesday, March 20 – It’s another beautiful, sunny day with mild temperatures – perfect for our day trip to Hot Water Beach. This gorgeous beach on the east coast of the Coromandel Peninsula has an unusual spot where natural hot water pools are very close to the surface. For two hours before and after low tide, you can dig your own hot tub in the sand. We took our time driving to the beach and stopped at another beach just to enjoy the scenery. Low tide would be at about 2:30 so the best time to be at the hot water beach was 12:30 to 4:30. We arrived a little early but there were quite a few people heading down the beach with their spades so we followed along. It was only a short walk along a beautiful beach before we arrived at the hot beach area. John started digging as did everyone else – no hot water yet and it seemed that most others were not finding hot water either. Well, we were early and there were no instructions as to where exactly to dig. As the tide continued to move out, we tried another spot – still no hot water. We started checking out what others were doing and found that just next to us, a family had dug a wide depression and were all enjoying the hot water. Walking on the sand in front of them we found it was hot – VERY hot. So we dug in there and soon had our little shallow hot tub. The water was so hot that we had to expand the depression to include a cooler area of the sand to blend with the super hot water. Even just standing in the hottest water was impossible - well over the temperature of the hottest of hot springs.

As I was sitting in the shallow hot water, a German lady came by and asked if she and her husband could share our pool. Her husband then came with his spade and he and John dug a little more. Eva and Dietmar, a retired professor of physics, were from Kassel, Germany and were near the end of a four month journey around New Zealand. . When they arrived in NZ, they bought camping equipment, tents, sleeping bags, air mattresses, cooking gear, etc. and have been camping for nearly four months. We told them about home exchanging and they are now very keen to try it themselves. I think they have probably had enough camping for a while but it certainly enabled them travel around the country inexpensively and they were able to see a lot – and escaped Germany’s cold winter months. We had a very pleasant visit with them and John had a chance to practice his German, although both Eva and Dietmar spoke English. We exchanged email addresses and will hope to keep in touch with them.

We drove up the coast a little farther to Cooks’ Beach and then headed back to Tairua where we stopped for a very late lunch.

I’ll post pictures of Hot Water Beach next week after we arrive in Perth.

Voyage to Tairua

Monday in Pauanui

The title of this blog is a little joke – the “voyage” was a ferry ride of 10 minutes across the bay from Pauanui to the little tourist village of Tairua. We started the day rather early because daylight savings time ended in New Zealand this morning so we were wide awake before by 6 a.m. We needed to get tourist info from the tourist information center but it wasn’t open until 10:00. We knew there was a ferry but not the times and took a ride over there and no signs. So, we went back home and I figured out how to use the Espresso machine and made us some cappuccino – it turned out great! So then we did a little spin around Pauanui – that didn’t take long as it is only about 2 miles long by a mile wide – (just a guess). We finally got to visit with the very helpful lady at the info center who gave us lots of brochures and suggestions. We found out that the next ferry was leaving at 11:15 so we were on it heading for Tairua. It was pleasant, not exciting, and we walked the little Main St. – checked out the gallery and gift shops and had lunch – BLT pannini sandwiches which were excellent. Bacon, by the way, is quite different from what we are used to, but very good. Walked some more, sat on a bench by the shore and watched the seagulls. Headed home on the 3:00 ferry. The weather is absolutely the best! A little windy but blue skies and warm temperatures. Tomorrow will be more interesting – we’re going to head out in the car to explore the Coramandel Penninsula including the Hot Water Beach.

Wellington-Napier-Pauanui

Part 1 – Lower Hutt to Napier

Friday, March 16 – It’s time to leave our comfortable home exchange of the last two weeks and head for our next stop – Napier. We are members of a home-stay travel club (ATC). There are a lot of members listed in New Zealand and on a whim I looked up members between Wellington and Pauanui, the next stop on our agenda. Comparing member locations to the map, I found a couple of members in the town of Napier, on the east coast about ½ way to Pauanui – perfect! I emailed members Ruth and Don on Wednesday to see if they would have us for Friday night. I received an answer right away that they could accommodate us. Don gave me a link to his web site and it turns out that they are also in the B & B business with their separate studio apt. where we stayed as well as a bedroom inside their house. Don also is a photographer and he had some examples of his fine work on his web site. So, we headed their way on Friday morning. One of the few negatives we found about NZ is that there aren’t enough road signs telling you where you are or where you should turn. We had a map but still turned the wrong way not even out of town near Lower Hutt and ended up with a beautiful view of the bay up in the hills but we had to back track to get on the road we were supposed to be on. It’s about a 4 hour drive to Napier and we had no further problems – just beautiful scenery all the way. Our conversation in the car was – “wow, look at that!” - “amazing!” - “beautiful!” – “more sheep!” – “keep toe left!” The photographer in me wanted to stop every 5 miles to take pictures but, of course, we couldn’t do that or we never would have arrived at our destination.

Our neighbor in Lower Hutt, Grant, invited us to stop at one of their “Mr. Apple” orchards near Napier. He gave us the name of the manager and assured us he would give us a tour. We found the orchard – Te Papa – amidst beautiful rolling hills of vineyards and orchards. Ian was happy to drive us around the 300 acre orchard with six different varieties of apples. They were just finishing harvesting the Royal Galas and were starting a new variety called “Jazz”. We stopped to try it out – New Zealand is very proud of this new apple – look for it soon in your supermarkets. It was very tasty – lots of juice and zip. He gave us a half dozen to take along with us. The apple trees here are quite small and loaded with apples. They are grafting onto dwarf stock which makes for much easier harvesting. Check out my pictures in Web Albums to see the beautiful apples. The harvest will go on until about May with temporary workers from Samoa. They provide living facilities for the workers right at the orchard and they are able to earn quite a bit of money to take home with them back to Samoa. The NZ government has a good program to welcome these foreign guest workers.

We arrived in Napier around 2 p.m. and had a short welcome visit with our congenial hosts, Ruth and Don. Then we headed into town to look around and find something to eat. Napier is the “Art Deco” city of the world. There was a devastating earthquake close to the city in 1931. Nearly everything was destroyed and may lives were lost. The town was totally rebuilt in the style of the times with a group of professional architects. Somewhere in the 80’s, the buildings were spruced up and the city capitalized on its Art Deco theme. It’s now a lovely sea-side town with nice pedestrian shopping area, beach, gardens, restaurants and a very successful commercial port area. We walked through town and then had a nice meal at a seafood restaurant. When we returned to the house, Don and Ruth invited us in for tea and pleasant conversation. Both are retired schoolteachers. Don now works part time with a local travel agent – their specialty is arranging freighter cruises. They have been on a couple of cruises themselves and sounds like quite the adventure. As I said earlier, Don is also an accomplished photographer. They both like gardening and have lovely flowers and an extensive veggie garden in their back yard. (They sent a bag of tomatoes with us when we left).

Next morning, we went in the house for a nice breakfast including Ruth’s homemade lemon poppy seed muffins and homemade jams. We also met their B & B guests from England who were on their way to the south island where they were going to rent a camper-van for the rest of their trip. After breakfast we said good-bye to our new friends and were on our way again.

Don gave us direction on how to by-pass the city of Taupo which we had gone through on our way to Wellington so we followed those directions. I then looked at the directions to Pauanui that our Wellington hosts had given us and realized that we were on a different route. So, after some discussion and map-studying we decided to stay on the route Don had given us since it went right to the coast and would probably have very nice scenery but maybe a little longer. Well, it definitely took longer and the roads were very winding and up and down but spectacular. We easily found our way to Pauanui and settled into our next home. We had enough groceries with us to have a lamb chop dinner and turned in early.

The house in Pauanui is wonderful. It is new, modern with a wonderful simple open floor plan design and only a 2 min. walk to the beach. Sunday morning we went for a walk and then stocked up on a few items at the local supermarket. Pauanui is kind of a little peninsula of its own on the east side of the Coramandel Peninsula. It has nice parks, two nine-hole golf courses and is very quiet. The high season is past but the weather is still very nice. There are lots of nearby things to see and do. We’ll be making a stop at the Info office shortly. There’s no Internet connection in the house but I was told at the shopping center that I could take my laptop there and get a wireless connection anywhere there. We’ll see.

Leaving Wellington

It's Thursday evening and we are about cleaned up and packed up ready to leave early tomorrow morning. We are going to drive about 4 hours to Napier (the Art Deco City) on Hawkes Bay on the east coast of the North Island where we will spend the rest of the day and tomorrow night. We are also hoping to stop by and visit an apple orchard and packing plant - this a recommendation of our neighbor Grant who works in the apple industry. On Saturday we will drive about 5 hours to the other part of our exchange in Pauanui - on the Coromandel Penninsula.

We've had a couple of days of intense rain so haven't done much. But today it was bright and sunny and we visited the New Dowse Gallery in Lower Hutt. Had a nice lunch there and saw all of the exhibits. It was a delightful modern museum emphasizing innovative creative arts and crafts.

We've thoroughly enjoyed our stay in the Wellington area and feel quite at home now in New Zealand. The people are very friendly and kind and everyone made us feel very welcome.

Now it's on to more adventures.

The Weekend & Ferry to Picton

The Weekend

We didn't do much on Saturday other than walk around the neighborhood and relax. The next door neighbors, Camille and Grant, phoned us in the afternoon and invited us over for drinks. We accepted, of course, and had a lovely visit with them in their beautiful gardens. They both work full time so this was the first chance we had to get together with them since we met them briefly on our arrival.

Sunday, after a leisurely breakfast, we drove to Petone, a suburb between here and Wellington. We walked along their beautiful waterfront on this bright and sunny day and then walked a couple of blocks to the main street and found a place to have a light lunch. After lunch, we visited their little museum on the waterfront called the Settler's Museum. It was a nice historical exhibit of the history of the area. On the way home, we stopped at the Pack 'n Save to pick up a few more groceries - John has sticker shock every time we go to the grocery store - quite a bit more expensive than Mexico - but probably about like the US.

I prepared a roast leg of lamb for dinner and it was delicious - the lamb is just unbelievable here.

Ferry to Picton - Monday

Our friendly neighbors, Camille and Grant, gave us a lift to the Interisland Ferry dock for which we were very grateful since we didn't want to drive there and weren't sure if the bus would get us there in time for our 7:55 a.m. check-in. We arrived just as passengers were boarding, and there were a lot of passengers including a mob of pre-teens from a school group. Our ship, the Kaitaki, was the newest in the fleet having been launched in 1997 in Holland. Its capacity was 1600 passengers and 900 cars. Once aboard we had a variety of choices of where to sit including a cafe, food court, bar, and numerous lounges on several decks - mostly indoors but you could walk around outside on the decks also. The weather was not the best as it was quite cloudy but it was not cold and there was no rain - yet. The voyage was three hours to Picton through Cook's Straights - connecting NZ's North and South Islands. These straights are often very windy and treacherous but our sailing was quite smooth and pleasant.

The hours passed quickly as we enjoyed a mochaccino, the passing scenery and the antics of the school children aboard who were virtually running wild while the teachers payed little attention to them.

In Picton we walked down the street to the Information Center to ask about the various tours available. The friendly agent, Annette, suggested the Mail Boat cruise. It sounded interesting so we signed up. Mail is delivered for the NZ Post by boat to the remote cottages and homes located in the bays of the Queen Charlotte Sound - Picton is located in this sound. After lunch of some sort of egg pie in a flaky pasty we boarded the boat with about 25 or 30 other passengers. The "Tiri Cat" was a very comfortable catamaran with inside and outside seating. Monday's route was the best as it ducked into numerous little coves to deliver the mail. The boat would pull up to the dock almost without stopping and hand over a bag of mail to whoever was waiting there, and taking their outgoing mail bag in exchange. At most docks, a dog would accompany their master and the skipper would hand him/her a dog biscuit. As we passed one dock whose delivery was on a different day, the skipper noted that "George" was waiting at the dock for the mail boat and he knew that he was home alone. He said that he would stop on the way back to give George his biscuit. So, later, he pulled towards the dock honking the boat horn and soon George was running down from the house to the pier as fast as his little Jack Russell legs would carry him. George was delighted to receive his treat and really didn't seem to mind that there was no mail.

Some of the stops were private homes and some were guest cottages and a few were small resort hotels. All were very remote and surrounded by wilderness. At the farthest point out we pulled in at Ship Cove - named by Capt. James Cook who also named the Queen Charlotte Sound. He made numerous visits to the area in the 1700's to study the wildlife and the southern skies. He made several stops at Ship Cove and there is a memorial to him at this beach.

Our mail cruise lasted about 4 hours and we enjoyed every minute of it. In one spot we encountered a large number of bottlenose dolphins and the skipper stopped for quite a while so we could enjoy their cavorting and leaping all around us.

Upon our arrival at Picton the skipper very kindly dropped us off right at the ferry pier and we were just in time to check in for our journey back to Wellington, this time on the Antere - one of the other ships. This one was older and smaller than the Kaitaki but very comfortable and we had great lounge chairs right at the front of the ship with big glass windows so the view was great. The last hour was in darkness and it was wonderful to cruise into Wellington harbor with all the lights of the city and suburbs surrounding us. We managed to negotiate our way to a bus stop and got home around 10:20 p.m. No rain yet so we were quite pleased with our ferry adventure to the South Island.

It's now Tuesday morning and the rains came last night and while it has stopped this morning, it's quite overcast and a good day to relax at "home". I'm just reflecting on one of the many advantages it is to do home exchanges as compared to being in a hotel room on a rainy day.

I've posted pictures of yesterday's trip so be sure to check them out. The link is at the top of the blog.

More Museum & More Lamb Chops

Thursday we decided to mostly stay home except for a trip to the supermarket, Pack 'n Save, to stock up on a few groceries. There aren't very many supermarkets in evidence - this is the only one we know about between our house and downtown. We found everything we needed and then some. They had a very nice wine selection, although we weren't familiar with most of the wines for sale. We went home and grilled lamb chops again.

Friday we went back to the Te Papa Museum to see what we had missed the first day and it was a lot including a special exhibit about ancient Egypt centering on mummies and included a real mummy found of a young woman. We split an order of fish and chips at the restaurant and then spent about 4 hours in the museum.

At home, I booked tickets for a cruise to the South Island on the Interisland Ferry. We'll leave the dock in Wellington at 8:30 a.m. on Monday and return at 9:00 p.m. The cruise to Picton is 3 hrs each way so we'll have about 6 hrs to sightsee in the Picton area. It is supposed to be the most beautiful ferry crossing in the world. We're hoping our wonderful weather will continue.

Te Papa Museum

Our Lunch at Te Papa

Wednesday - The day was kind of cloudy and windy - a good day to go to a museum. We hopped on the now familiar bus for the 1/2 hour ride to town. The Kiwi's (New Zealanders) are very friendly. I asked the bus driver which stop we should get off for the museum. He told us it's the last stop before the turnaround but that we should stay on the bus - he had to fuel up and the gas station was right across the street from the museum so we could get off there. Then he asked us where we were from and was surprised to hear we were from Mexico - he thought we were from the UK. Te Papa is a large museum which has wonderful exhibits about Earthquakes, Volcanos, New Zealand in general, wildlife, the environment and on and on. We had a nice lunch there and then spent several hours looking at exhibits - until we were worn out even though we didn't see all of it. We'll go back another day to finish.

Thursday we decided to take a day off from sightseeing, do laundry and take a trip to the supermarket. It's very interesting to see what kinds of things they have in the stores that are different from what we're used to. There are a lot of ethnic ingredients - especially for Asian cooking. Groceries are more expensive than what we're used to in Mexico - probably about like the US, though. One very bizarre item, though, is a product called Marmite (in Australia they have a similar product called Vegemite). My friend Ingrid told me to avoid it - she's been to Australia - it's vile. I mentioned it to our rental car people, and before we took off in our car he presented us with a gift of a jar of Marmite. They spread it on their toast for breakfast. I opened it and it smelled strongly of yeast. Yup - that's what its base was - 80% yeast, the label said. Anyway, it's indescribable. I tried a tiny bit on a piece of toast and Ingrid was right, it's vile. John, on the other hand, thought it was o.k. but he definitely prefers marmalade on his toast. I suspect we'll leave the Marmite behind for our hosts. I guess it's supposed to be healthy - full of B vitamins and iron.

I took some pictures of the flowers in Moira's garden this afternoon. You can check my Web Albums if you're interested. They are quite beautiful.